Nepalko Kala (a project of Global Shapers Kathmandu), in collaboration with Deego Pranali organized a heritage walk on monastery visits in Patan. This walk focuses on understanding the ritualistic practices of the Buddhist community across three major sites— Oku Bahah, Su Bahah and Bhinchhen Bahah. We end our walk in Pilachhen.
Our guide, Birat Raj Bajracharya, who has a profound knowledge in Vajrayāna Buddhist rituals, classical Tibetan and Sanskrit literature. He is driven by a commitment to preserving cultural heritage and fostering dialogue between academic and cultural communities.
The walk started at Oku Bahah, introducing participants to the fundamentals of Buddhism, the start of Vajrayāna Buddhism in Nepal, and various historical contexts. The guide led us into the main courtyard where we observed the second ritual of the day. He explained that four rituals take place daily— two in the morning and one each in the afternoon and evening. Oku Bahah, built in the sixth century by King Sivadeva has undergone various renovations, with most structures today stand beyond 18th century. It was restored in the 12th century by King Rudradeva, and over time, it received offerings and support from both devotees and the state. The statue of Junga Bahadur Rana in the premises, along with newer additions such as lions and other elements gives blend of architectural display. The guide also pointed about the five female Buddhas intricately carved into a wooden panel within the structure.
Next, we proceeded to the second courtyard to see Tago Chiba. Here, the guide elaborated about the Pancha Buddha— Vairochana, Akshobhya, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha and Amoghasiddhi. We also observed Naagdeva on the north side of the Chiba, a site where people pray for rain and its cessation. This highlighted how deeply our faith is associated with ecological traditions.
The next stop was Mahabuddha, a grand Shikhara-style temple influenced by the Mahabodhi temple in India. The temple’s construction spanned three-generations and was inspired by a dream of Abhaya Raj Shakya, a master artisan. Taking 36 years to complete, this architectural masterpiece features thousands terracotta-carved Buddha figures on its façade. The temple has received significant offerings, including gold from Sikkim, which were dedicated to Bungadyah (the Rato Machhindranath) Jatra.
During the walk, the guide also talked about the four Buddhist pilgrimages sites as mentioned in Buddhist scriptures— Lumbini (the birthplace of Buddha), Bodhgaya (where he got enlightenment), Sarnath (where he preached learnings) and Kusinagar (where he got nirvana). Buddhist community intended to visit to these places and get acquainted with necessary faith that they would want to.
Our third stop was Su Bahah, also known as Jay Manohar Mahavihara. Here the guide shared an intriguing historical fact— many Buddhist monasteries were built over former cremation grounds, including Su Bahah. He also noted that Tibetan Buddhists have a similar practice of constructing monasteries on cremated sites, as seen around Boudhanath Stupa. Within Su Bahah courtyard, here is a shrine dedicated to Mahakal, where an unusual ritual involving meat offerings takes place during the Dashain festival. This practice symbolizes an acknowledgment of life’s cyclical nature and impermanence.
The fourth stop was Bhinchhen Bahah, also known as Mayur Varna Mahavihara. This Bahah has a notably large courtyard with the monastery situated at its center. The guide explained how the artistic elements of different monasteries reflect the expertise of local artisans. Oku Bahah predominantly features bronze and brass sculptures, whereas Bhinchhen Bahah is characterized by its stone structures, indicating the presence of skilled stone artisans in that area.
Here, the guide also detailed various rites performed by the Buddhist community, including Chudakarma, a significant ritual marking a young Buddhist’s initiation into monastic practices. He discussed other essential Vajrayāna Buddhist rituals and the distinctions between Bahah and Bahi. A Bahi serves as a monastic learning center, whereas a Bahah is primarily a site for ritualistic practices.
The walk concluded in Pilachhen, a community promoted as a living heritage site exemplifying balance and resilience. Traditionally a farming community, Pilachhen has undergone significant transformations over the past centuries. Following the devastating 2015 earthquake, the community has worked towards revival, establishing the Pilachhen Community Homestay, which fosters cultural exchange and sustainable communal living.
This heritage walk aimed to promote ‘Pancha Pranali’—the five earthly elements—aligning them with Buddhist traditions observed in daily life. The elements—space, water, earth, fire, and air—are also symbolized by the five Buddhas: Vairochana, Akshobhya, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha, and Amoghasiddhi. The walk served as a reminder of the deep interconnection between nature, culture, and human existence, pointing the need to preserve this balance in contemporary times.
Written by: Saurav Thapa Shrestha, Global Shaper, Kathmandu Hub.
